we have 2 of these one upstairs and one down,
Basically tandem Joule and Samsung can be easily married to Nest Thermostat, in my case, I have two different zones (first and second floor) where on the wall has been installed Joule thermostat, each thermostat has been connected to the 2 port motorized valves and control those valves based on the desired temperature that set up on thermostat. So you need to figure out your set up and find wiring that control Valves (should be Live (brown) wire on the wiring box that affixed to Joule tank
Once you find those, you need to following Nest wiring diagram for district heating with electrical control valve
And reconnect all wiring accordingly (live to live, neutral to neutral), install jumper between Live and common (port 2) and install Live from valve to call for heat (port 3). Ports 1 to 3 responsible for heating, ports 4 to 6 for hot water and won’t be used in this set up, as hot water controlled by samsung module.
T1 and T2 will be used if you want to install Nest thermostat on the same place where is old thermostat and it will give 12V power to Nest thermostat, if decided to install nest somewhere else, just leave those empty.
In my opinion, you won’t have all benefits that Nest can provide, as Air to Heat pump is more efficient if it’s running all the time and keep temperature in house at the same level (in my case, for example, to heat house from 20 to 24 degrees, it would require from 4 to 5 hours, don’t know why, maybe weather compensation is set up incorrectly). So replacing existing thermostat to Nest, will cost you fortune and you will have a fancy thermostat that can show you time and weather plus you could remotely use it.
Also, if you have two zones (first and second floor floor) you will need two nest thermostat and two heat links.
Hi All,
Just in case it helps any of the users here with a very new Joule/Samsung Heat Pump System(generally Ireland/UK). I have added a Google Nest Gen 3 Thermostat to control one of my zones now and below is how I did it.
I have 2 Joule thermostats(Upstairs/Downstairs) as below:
And this is the tank and Samsung Controller:
REMEMBER TO SWITCH OFF THE ELECTRICITY BEFORE MOVING ON. 🙂
This is how the thermostat was wired:
From Left to Right its Switched Live, Neutral, Live. This is a 230V supply.
This is the tank behind the casing(Sorry I had removed 1 wire at this point before taking a picture):
The each thermostat was essentially acting as a switch for the valve for its zone. The main board can essentially be disregarded only the smaller Kodiak board controls this.
In the below picture the red, yellow and blue show where the wires from my thermostat connect to the Joule Kodiak board, the Live is the Yellow arrow, the neutral the blue arrow and the S/L(switched live) the red arrow.
By tracing the wires from my motorised valves which were labelled(thankfully), I found the black wire went from the "Down" valve to the port at the bottom of the board labelled "Zone 2" . For this reason I knew that the switched live I was interested in was "Zone 2" (holding this wire in the photo). It is printed to the left of the connector on the board(to the left of red circle below)
I connected the L/N terminal on the Heatlink to the L/N on the Joule Kodiak board (Yellow Arrow, Blue Arrow). Then I wired from port 3 on the Heatlink to the S/L for the downstairs motorized valve(red arrow).
I also install the jumper between the live and the common(port 2) as in @Snarkzzz post below and as in the official install documents.
As @Snarkzzz mentions, you can use ports T1 and T2 to power your thermostat. I used the Live and the Neutral wires from my original wiring to my thermostat. I made the Earth wire safe and then connected Live to T1 and Neutral to T2 on the Heatlink, and then at the wall downstairs I did the same, Live to T1 and Neutral to T2.
I'm not a Pro but this might be useful for anyone wanting to add a bit of smarts to a Joule/Samsung Air to Water Heat Pump.
Thanks,
G
